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In Dallas, a passion for pizza

Pizza is happening in and around Dallas, and I’m not talking those cheap, cheesy manhole covers. No, the pizza that’s all the buzz echoes the kind of pizza you find in Italy, with lots of attention to the crust and the keep-it-simple approach to toppings — terrific handmade mozzarella, the best tomatoes, only fresh basil and no dried oregano. Pizzaiolo Jay Jerrier leads the pack with Cane Rosso, which opened to instant crowds in Deep Ellum in February. Its blazing wood-fired oven cooks each pizza in 90 seconds, and getting just the right char without burning the pie takes a nimble hand.

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